Anchovy

The anchovy is a dark blue and silver fish found in the Mediterranean off the coasts of France, Italy and Spain, and off the Atlantic coasts of Europe, although not in the north. Quite often Pilchards, Ale-wives and other lesser members of the herring family are referred to as anchovies; however, despite being well spiced, pickled or salted, none of these can really be classified as anchovies. Although the anchovy can and sometimes does grow as much as eight inches long, its usual size ranges between 2-1/2 to 3 inches. Fresh anchovies are often on sale in Mediterranean fish markets and in the Atlantic coast markets of Spain and Portugal. Fresh fish are excellent when they have a white flesh and a good flavor, but they cannot compare to the flavor of a cured anchovy. Its special flavor and color develop only after it has been pickled for several months in salt and changes in fermentation have occurred. For thousands of years, the inhabitants of the Mediterranean have known how to salt and pickle fish.

When it comes to Mediterranean cooking, salted anchovies are used quite often; however, in America and northern Europe only anchovies preserved in oil are available. One of the reasons for the quick salting of anchovies is that they deteriorate quickly when exposed to the air and require vast amounts of salt in order to preserve them well. Plain salted anchovies should be soaked in water for a short while before trying to remove their salt. With the canned anchovy being in oil, this process however becomes more difficult, and therefore, anchovies in oil should always be used with care unless their flavor is intended to play a dominant role in the dish. In Victorian England, it was common practice to lard meat with anchovies, instead of with salt, as they blended into the savory background without being obvious.

There are literally dozens of ways anchovies can be used in cooking. Regarded more as a flavoring than as a major ingredient, anchovies are excellent in sauces for cold meats, game and poultry. They marry well with eggs and make a delicious dressing for broccoli. In Italy, they are cooked with spinach. Anchovy fillets are used in Italian antipasti and in French hors d'oeuvres, as well as in a Scandinavian smorgasbord. In German Holstein schnitzel, they are used as a garnish, whereas in certain Mediterranean countries, they are served as an appetizer with bread and butter. In Belgium and Holland, anchovies are marinated with thinly sliced onions and slivers of lemon rind in wine vinegar for consumption with an aperitif.

In Italy, a dish of fried anchovies smothered in a delicious tomato sauce and garnished with truffles is quite popular. In Piedmont, one of many Italian centers known for its culinary prowess, bagna cauda sauce is one of its most famous dishes, consisting of anchovies melded in a mixture of oil and butter, and eaten as a dip with vegetables. Pizzas too can be garnished with anchovies. Specific to Provence, anchoiada are pounded along with olive oil and a few drops of vinegar in a mortar and then spread on slices of bread and sprinkled with finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. A jar of salted anchovies will keep almost indefinitely, provided they remain in a liquid, are covered up and always taken out with a clean spoon. Canned anchovies in oil will also last a longtime, if they are kept covered in oil and not exposed to the air. The value of an anchovy rests in its flavor, which prepares and sharpens the appetite for meat dishes and drinks. When used in conjunction with its brother fish and certain fowl, it enhances their flavor.