Culinary and thoughts blog.

Perhaps best known for its exquisite caviar, the term “sturgeon” is used to describe 26 fish species. Native to both subtropical and sub-Arctic freshwater areas in Eurasia and North America, sturgeon have been around since at least the time of the dinosaurs. A truly imposing fish, when mature they range in length from 7 to over 18 feet and can exceed 2,000 pounds in weight! This article will present some historical and gastronomical information regarding this fascinating species.

Written accounts of sturgeon have existed since the ancient Roman period, where sturgeon flesh was deemed an aphrodisiac. It was quite popular with Henry I and Edward II of England, and up until the late 1800s was found in plentiful numbers. However, over the past century, the sturgeon’s popularity as a source of meat and caviar has led to a drastic decline in its numbers in the wild. The species’ plight is complicated by its long reproductive cycle, slow growth rate and sensitivity to environmental changes, causing over 85% of sturgeon species to now be considered at risk of extinction.

Chef Eric with a 85 kg sturgeon

Despite the severe population downtown, sturgeon caviar is still in high demand world-wide. The most prized caviar types include Beluga, Sterlet, Ossetra, and Sevruga, all of which can only be obtained through the butchery of female sturgeon. Currently, over 90% of the world’s caviar is culled from the Caspian Sea, but imports to North America have periodically been banned or severely restricted due to the sturgeon’s endangered status. Nonetheless, the extremely high prices (between  € 6,000 and € 12,000 per kilo for the highest quality varieties) commanded by sturgeon caviar continue to contribute to the global market for the commodity and, in tandem, the fish’s ongoing decline.

To address this matter, and avoid literally killing the goose that lays the golden eggs, commercial sturgeon aquaculture has been attempted in several countries including Spain, Italy, France, and the U.S., among others. If you’re a caviar aficionado concerned with the sturgeon’s plight, you can obtain more information about and sources for obtaining sustainable caviar at websites such as: California Caviar (http://www.californiacaviar.com/), The Little Pearl (http://www.littlepearl.com/), etc. “Caviar” made from non-sturgeon fish, such as hackleback, salmon and paddlefish, are also available as less environmentally damaging substitutes. Sturgeon meat from sustainable sources is also an excellent choice, as when handled and cooked properly yields a succulent flesh similar to that of swordfish.

In a nutshell, I don’t recommend that consumers part ways with the delicious sturgeon meat and caviar that they are accustomed to enjoying. However, if you want this wonderful animal to still be around to feed successive generations as well as contribute to health of its local ecosystems, then you should choose sturgeon products that are sustainably produced.

Try this recipe: One of the best ways to serve fresh salmon roe or caviar in the morning, this double eggs breakfast is a perfect communion between land and ocean. Pleasing to the eye and very chic. Boiled Eggs VIP

If you’ve ever hosted a major holiday meal at your home, then you know that good planning and careful preparation are just as important as delicious recipes to the event’s success. This article will walk you through some of the most important holiday meal preparations so that hosting newbies will feel more confident this season–even event pros might learn a few new tricks to help make this Christmas meal the best yet!

Once of the most important steps in ensuring that your Christmas goes off without a hitch is to plan your menu well in advance. When in the planning stage, be sure to consider the ages and palates of your guests as well as any allergy or dietary issues so you can be sure to offer something to please everyone. Keep in mind that the Christmas dinner that you’d prepare for a small group of middle-aged vegetarian gourmands would be quite different than what a houseful of young parents with children accustomed to chicken nuggets and chocolate chip cookies would enjoy. Expect to prepare adequate and varied side dishes to complement main meats and hearty desserts—in particular, a fresh salad or fruit dish is always pleasing to a palate worn out by richer options.

Before heading to the supermarket, be sure that any specialty cookware and fancy plating sets (which in many households go otherwise unused all year long) are polished, dusted or in any other way rendered in good condition well before the main event. If you’re serving a large group using specialty plate-ware, using buffet furniture can help keep everything at hand yet still tucked tastefully away.

After deciding on all recipes, be sure to take stock of your fridge and pantry before making an organized shopping list that encompasses all ingredients that you don’t currently have on hand. When actually going to the grocery store, try to shop at an off hour, such as a weekday morning or late evening on weekends, so that you can avoid holiday crowds and have a much more relaxed, and thus likely more successful, purchasing experience.

Once you get down to the cooking and baking, try to make as many dishes in advance as possible. Pies, appropriate sides and turkey thawing can all be done beforehand. The more dishes that you have that simply need to be warmed on the big day the less stressful your Christmas meal will be and, thus, the better chance you’ll have to relax at least somewhat and enjoy the holiday cheer along with your guests—after all, that is a main objective of the holiday season, isn’t it?

When Christmas day arrives, be sure to have snacks and drinks ready to entertain guests who arrive early. If invitees insist on bringing something to share, ensure it’s something that won’t need to be reheated upon arrival so you don’t have another element to worry about on the big day. If children are attending, ensure that they have access to a play area to keep them occupied. It’s always a nice touch to have Christmas standards playing or to show classic holiday videos to keep everyone amused while you put the finishing touches on the meal.

Still not sure about your menu? Then please feel free to visit the Recipes section of my site, where you’ll find everything from a fabulous, traditional Christmas Roasted Stuffed Turkey with Gravy and Cranberry Sauce and Classic Pannetone to more unconventional options such as my Tourtiere Meat Pie and Alsatian Kugelhopf.

Joyeux Noël!

Every now and then, I enjoy using this blog to spotlight a local gourmet business that I believe deserves greater attention. Typically, I have no personal connection to these businesses other than having enjoyed or heard numerous rave reviews about them. For this first such themed entry, I’d like to introduce you to a purveyor of decadent chocolate and pastry ingredients: Qzina.

Qzina was founded in Vancouver 29 years ago by local businessman Richard Foley. Richard’s love for the sweet baked goods industry allowed him to build Qzina from a small, single-location importer of European chocolate products to the larger business that it is today, boasting offices across the U.S., Canada and Mexico and claiming the title of North America’s largest chocolate and pastry ingredient distributor. While the company is now headquartered in Pompano Beach, Richard hasn’t abandoned his local roots, maintaining major offices in Vancouver, Edmonton and Toronto. In fact, Qzina’s wider presence has allowed it to provide an even wider range of goods and services to a greater population of dessert aficionados.

Qzina offers two primary groups of product offerings for choosy bakers. The Qzina Exclusive Collection includes items exclusively manufactured and imported from Europe, and explicitly focuses on the highest quality and most innovative products. Items that constitute this collection include Chocoa premium Belgian chocolate, Crescendo pastry ingredients, and the most state-of-the-art products produced by prestigious brands such as Braun, Matisse, and Chewters among many others. The other principal collection is the Specialty collection, which focuses on more well-known and value-conscious brands. Valhrona chocolate, Pidy tart shells and Hero jams are some of the Specialty collection standouts.

Qzina’s increasingly widespread North American presence has allowed it to focus on a more diverse portfolio of industry offerings in addition to traditional product sales. For example, the company recently opened the Qzina Institute in Orange County, California, to provide world-class training and R&D support for chocolate and pastry professionals. This Institute has helped create Qzina TV, whose specialty ingredient, baking trends, and techniques videos can be viewed on the company website, YouTube, and other video forums. In addition, Qzina is actively involved in pastry demonstrations, open houses, trade shows and culinary competitions.

To better acquaint yourself with this wonderful, home-grown business, I recommend that you visit their website: http://www.qzina.com There you will find their online catalog, listing the wide variety of specialty products offered, a selection of mouth-watering dessert recipes, the latest information on high profile industry events, and much more.

The Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays are close at hand, so it’s only fitting that families across North America begin to plan their special event menus. Of all the possible dish selections, few are as popular as (almost) everyone’s favourite holiday protein: turkey!  This article will help you select, prepare and decorate the perfect turkey dish for this holiday season, providing helpful tips and recipes for both traditionalists and modern cuisine fans.

What a squash display!

Your first decisions when it comes to selecting the perfect holiday turkey will be what type and what size to buy. Size is the easy part—the general rule is that you should factor in one pound of turkey for each adult and half a pound for each child. Be sure that you estimate conservatively so that you still have plenty of meat for leftover turkey sandwiches during the long weekend holiday. Now the more difficult choice—what kind of turkey should you buy?

Hi, are you organic?

Turkeys are sold either fresh or frozen. Many consumers believe that fresh turkeys possess greater flavour, but end up purchasing a frozen one anyway for convenience reasons. If you opt for a fresh turkey, you’ll need to cook it within two days of purchase and ensure that your local grocer has kept the bird in optimal conditions during its time there. A frozen turkey can keep for weeks, but must be carefully thawed before serving. A good rule of thumb is to thaw it in the refrigerator one day for every four pounds of meat, although some home chefs take the express route by more quickly thawing the bird in a bath of ice water (one half hour for every pound of meat). This latter technique must be used very carefully, as if the ice water bath temperature rises above 32 degrees F, you will be putting your guests at risk of food-borne illness.

A pumpkin field along the Fraser river.

Among the many frozen turkey options available, you may find self-basting varieties (injected with a special solution to supposedly make the bird more succulent), Kosher turkeys, and organic/free range/ cage-free varieties (read the label carefully to ensure that they are 100% organic and hormone-free). Your personal preferences will help you navigate these options, as will your brand loyalty and budget!

Once you have selected and appropriately thawed your turkey, it should be brought to room temperature about 1 hour before cooking. All parts of the bird can be used, including the giblets (for gravy and stuffing) and bones (when properly preserved, use to flavour soups and stocks). As far as preparation details and appropriate side items go, there are a wealth of detailed tips and ideas contained in my turkey recipes on my website. Among my many delicious turkey recipes, the Christmas Roasted Stuffed Turkey with Gravy and Cranberry Sauce and Turkey with Apple and Truffle Flamed with Calvados are particularly delectable and provide some of the best instructions for preparing, cooking and decorating your Holiday bird.

As always, if you do end up trying one of  these recipes, please let me know how it turned out. Thanks for your interest, and here’s to the start of the winter holiday season!

The fertile soils and temperate climate of the Russian River Valley have made it one of California’s most popular and successful wine regions. Located one hour north of San Francisco, this region is ideally situated near a large and affluent population of consumers who have been relishing the area’s wines even before the Russian River Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) became an approved viticultural area in 1983.

The Russian River Valley is so named because the first non-natives to settle in Sonoma County were Russians, who arrived in 1812. In addition to fur hunting and trading, these settlers pursued agricultural endeavors including viticulture. When the Russians left the area in 1841, subsequent settlers took over and nurtured the existing vineyards, giving rise to the industry that flourishes there today. Contemporary winemakers continue to take advantage of the cool, foggy weather conditions that allow grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to develop full flavor maturity and unique acidity over an extended growing season. Soils in the 150 square mile area have high quantities of clay and alluvial materials, which further lend the grapes grown there a distinctive character.

A recent approved AVA boundary amendment has enabled the region to encompass lands to the east and south of the original established limits, including the entire Santa Rosa Plains, the entire Green Valley, and Sebastopol Hills. Currently, 103 wineries are included in this vast AVA, ranging from Acorn and Benovia to Windracer and Zmor.

In addition to award-winning fruity, Meyer-lemony Chardonnays, the Russian River Valley is renowned for its world-class Pinot Noirs. This difficult grape thrives and ripens fantastically in Russian River due to the consistently cool nights, dry weather, and moderately warm days. Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs have won countless local and international awards, helping put the AVA on the map for true oenophiles.

In addition to the usual suspects, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a number of other grape varieties are grown in the Russian River Valley. Zinfandels ripen exquisitely due to the area’s long growing season, and are characterized by dark berry aromas and black pepper overtones. The Cabernet Sauvignons produced here are typically full bodied with cedar notes and a fruity aroma. In turn, the Sauvignon Blancs, or

Fumé Blancs, are surprisingly crisp with delightful hints of tropical fruit.
Two relative newcomers to the winery scene in the Russian River Valley are Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Delicious apple and pear notes characterize the light to medium bodied Pinot Gris. Similar citrus notes are present in the region’s Gewurztraminer dessert wines, which can develop into a rich honeyed flavor depending on seasonal harvest conditions. The area’s weather conditions give this wine, as with most others born of different grape varieties, a signature acidity that allows it to balance out the sweetness of desserts or provide a fantastic counterpoint to spicy dishes.

Finding West Sonoma is as simple as traveling west of California Highway 116 until you hit the Pacific Coast, where you will encounter the cool, breezy temperatures that produce some of the U.S.’s best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. While this area is encompassed under the much larger Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA), growers in this sector of the AVA consider themselves to be a separate entity due to the differing temperatures and thus wine styles produced here when compared to other members of the AVA located farther east. This article will shed some light on this niche group of Sonoma wineries and the increasingly popular vintages produced there.

The growing areas typically considered part of West Sonoma are Annapolis, Fort Ross/Seaview, Occidental, Freestone, Green Valley and the Sebastopol Hills. Wineries in this coastal highlands area were nearly all established within the last 10 years, and feature dominant strains of syrah, chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. In an attempt to distinguish themselves from the other Sonoma AVA wineries which encompass an enormous 750 square mile region, much of which is too far east to experience the coastal weather and soil conditions that make West Sonoma wines unique, the West Sonoma Coast Vintners Group was formed. The Group is an association of wineries and growers who are dedicated to the promotion of West County wines and the development of a special sub-regional identity. Twenty five wineries currently constitute this entity, including Flowers Vineyard & Winery, Failla Wines, Freestone Vineyards, Cobb Wines, Boheme, and Red Car among others.

West Sonoma winemakers are proud of their intimate connection with the land, most of which has been farmed for generations. They are top participants in California’s Sustainable Winegrowing Program and emphasize organic and natural flavors in their products. For example, many of the region’s Chardonnays are created using fully sustainable practices, with growers obtaining added flavor through the natural effects of the Pacfic daytime breezes and chilly evening fogs. This lends an incredibly fresh acidity to the finished wines. The grapes benefit directly from the influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean which provides cool daytime breezes during bright sunny days to ensure proper ripening and chilly evening fogs to guarantee lively acidity for freshness in the finished wines. These wines are known for their rich floral aromatics and subtle mineral undertones.

The other standout grape in West Sonoma is Pinot Noir, which also thrives in the area’s cool growing conditions. West Sonoma Pinot Noirs are known for their excellent acidity, complex bouquets, and long finishes. These Pinot Noirs at their best are deep ruby red in color with flavors or red berry preserves coupled with smoky, mineral undertones.

While it still trails Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in production, syrah is the fastest growing varietal in West Sonoma. These grapes boast a high acidity, and feature flavor elements of rich concentrated fruit and woodsmoke. Blackberry, violet and grilled meat aromatics along with a wonderful garnet color add to the allure of these increasingly popular syrahs.

With Independence Day weekend now in the history books, we can all finally celebrate the official onset of summer dining! One of the most classic American summer dining traditions is the BBQ, and thus I have decided to devote a 4-part blog series to celebrating this delectable treat.

Over the next few days, I will expound upon BBQ tips and tricks, share finger-linking BBQ recipes, help settle the “best meat for BBQing” question, and provide insight into the time-honored Weber grill debate. I hope you enjoy embarking on this mouth-watering gastronomic journey with me, after which you will surely view this cookout classic with a new, perhaps more gourmet, perspective.

The first BBQ tip is of course to select the proper meat. This may seem easy at the outset, but it’s actually more complicated than you may think. While beef is the traditional meat choice, I always recommend serving at least one alternative meat for guests who may be watching their cholesterol or who otherwise don’t eat beef. Chicken, shrimp, or pork can be excellent options. For the beef, you need to select the proper cut. Some grill-friendly suggestions include Porterhouse/T-Bone, top loin, tenderloin, ribeye, and top sirloin. If you’re stuck with tougher cuts, such as flank or skirt, these will need to be marinated for at least 6 hours before your event to ensure optimal flavor. Be sure to have your favorite rubs, BBQ sauces and seasonings on hand to spice up these beef selections, and ensure that all meats are fully defrosted in the refrigerator before BBQing them.

Don’t forget that increasing numbers of people are vegetarian for health or moral reasons, and while they can certainly enjoy many typical summer BBQ side dishes, it’s always nice to provide them with a more substantial entrée such as veggie kebabs or grilled veggie burgers too. Just be sure to leave aside a separate section of the grill to exclusively cook vegetarian items. I always recommend that 20% of items be vegetarian-friendly at any group event.

Just as you carefully prepared your food items to grill, so too must you prepare the grill itself and associated tools before the main event. Be sure that the grill itself has been fully cleaned and sanitized—never, ever subscribe to the “just let it burn off” mentality or you could end up poisoning your loved ones! A dirty grill also leads to problems such as rusting, which can shorten the lifespan of your precious cooking device. Avoid burning accidents by keeping your grill stocked with clean tools, such as tongs, knives, pot holders, a meat thermometer, extra fuel, and any other items that you’ll need to keep your grill hot and productive all afternoon.

When you begin grilling, be sure to practice proper techniques. First and foremost, be sure to preheat your grill. Next, make sure that you don’t overcook the meat. Grilling at medium to medium-low temperatures ensures even cooking. If the temperature is too high, meat can char and become overcooked on the outside before the interior reaches the desired doneness. Excess fat should be removed from meats to avoid flare-ups. Make good use of your instant-read meat thermometer, as it’s the only reliable way to determine doneness. BBQd meats must be cooked to at least 145 degrees (medium rare). Resist the urge to continuously flip and prod the meat—flip twice at most so that the meat’s natural juices remain intact. Don’t forget that food continues to cook after it is taken off the grill, so take it off a few minutes before it reaches the desired doneness so that it can “rest.”

Even after your BBQ event is over, it’s critical to practice proper safety procedures. Ensure that you refrigerate leftovers promptly, knowing that they can be eaten within 4 days or much longer if frozen. Be sure to never reuse leftover marinades or seasoning mixes that have already touched meat. Also, carefully clean your grill and grilling tools so that they’re maintained in tip top shape and are ready to go for your next BBQ!

True wine aficionados do not confine themselves to the traditional Napa boundaries, but instead search for delightful new vineyards and flavors nearby, such as those found in American Canyon, Angwin, Lake Berryessa, and Pope Valley. From May to November insiders flock to these areas just outside Napa to enjoy winery tours, outdoor picnics, and the spectacular natural wonders which abound during this time period.

Called the “gateway” to Napa, American Canyon is situated at the far south of Napa County and is only 25 miles from San Francisco. Wine growing in this area is still in its infancy, but investors are keeping a close eye on expansion opportunities here due to the increasingly high quality, low price Chardonnays, Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Syrahs being produced here.

Map of Napa Valley Wineries

Nestled at the top of Howell Mountain overlooking the Napa Valley is the quiet community of Angwin, whose numerous wineries belie its initially sleepy appearance. The area’s high attitude allow its wine-makers to produce plentiful Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Merlots. From towering castles to humble bodegas, Angwin wineries showcase a great variety of wine tasting atmospheres, which can accommodate the preferences of virtually any visitor.

In eastern Napa County sits one of California’s largest man-made lakes, which lends its name to the Lake Berryessa wine region. Touted as a rich and relaxed alternative to the more typically visited and thus congested Napa Valley hot spots, Lake Berryessa wine growers are known for providing their guests with lots of personal attention. The Cabernet Sauvignons, Cabernet Francs, Chardonnays, Merlots, and Zinfandels found in Lake Berryessa’s vineyards are known to source some of the more well-known wineries in Napa proper.

Napa Valley Wine Cellar

Northeast of Angwin in the Vacas Mountain range rests one of greater Napa’s hidden treasures: Pope Valley. This region’s wine growers are currently in the process of applying for AVA status, and visitors should note that many of the wineries in this area can be visited by appointment only. Chenin Blancs, Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignons, Sangiovese, and Zinfandels are popular grape varieties found in Pope Valley, which produces about 5,000 cases of wine annually. The vintage feel of this region appeals to many wine enthusiasts tired of the same old Napa Valley tourist traps, and eager to get off the beaten path to get a sense of what wine growing was like when it first began here at the turn of the 20th century.

I hope you enjoyed my three part series on Napa Valley wines. Please feel free to post comments regarding your Napa experiences on my blog site. Santé!

Napa Valley Wine Train Gourmet Car